KOOK - What Surfing Taught Me About Love, Life, and Catching the Perfect Wave by Peter Heller Thruster Fins den USA und Frankreich einfängt

den USA und Frankreich einfängt

Interviews mit Locals

die diese Personen abseits von Wasser und Wellen miteinander verbindet

The Fourth Wall

Wir sind sehr stolz darauf

KOOK - What Surfing Taught Me About Love, Life, and Catching the Perfect Wave by Peter Heller Thruster Fins den USA und Frankreich einfängtWith grit, poetry, and humor, Peter Heller, acclaimed author of The River and The Whale Warriors recounts his remarkable journey of discoveryof surfing, an entirely new challenge; of the oceans beauty and power; of the strange surf subculture; of love; and, most of all, of how to seek adventure while crafting a meaningful life. Having resolved to master a big hollow wavethat is, to go from kook (surfese for beginner) to shredderin a single year,